The program sold itself on immersion, by which it meant four hours of grammar a day and a homestay. What it did not account for is that immersion is mostly waiting: for the conversation to slow down, for the word to arrive, for someone to decide you are worth the effort of being understood.

So I went to the same café every afternoon for six weeks and did nothing. I ordered the same thing badly, then adequately, then without thinking about it. The staff stopped switching to English somewhere around week three, which was the single largest jump in my Arabic and had nothing to do with the classroom.

I have since been told this is a known thing, that language happens in the dead time and not in the drill. Nobody said so at the time. What they said was that I should get out more, see Jerash, do the Dead Sea. I did those too. They were fine. They are not what I think about.